This Tuesday, we will be popping open three bottles from the humble and charming Romain des Grottes. I remember first meeting Romain last fall when he was in Chicago for a long weekend. I found out many things about him: his love for crisp, light beers; that goat cheese is a favorite of his to pair with his delicate Gamays and exciting hybrid bottlings; and that he finds Chicago’s wine scene amongst the freshest and most exciting, even compared to Paris (which I thought was crazy cool).
But what has remained atop of mind and memory is his laid back and sweet character. He’s a passionate vigneron who left Parisian city life to live slowly and presently with his family in Saint-Etienne-des-Ouillieres, about an hour north of Lyon. He spoke about his work and wines with great enthusiasm, but also with deep curiosity and contemplation. This is when he told me about working with hybrid grape varietals and producing mixed-fruit bottlings to see through his vision on Beaujolais winemaking: honest, lifted wines that are tres digeste. And even the Gamays, like his flagship ‘Brut de Cuve’, manage to feel nostalgic in the Lyonnais bistro spirit yet completely individualistic at once. Energy and vivacity are the main qualities that come to my mind.
Romain and I crossed paths again in California this past March at a wine fair. Before I said hello, his smile widened as he greeted me with a hug. Again, he was quick to speak on the inspiration and the deep sense of community he felt during his US visits. Like him, the wines have a spark that make you smile and fill the heart as quick as you’ll refill the glass. I hope we can explore that feeling together this Tuesday with the following bottles: ‘Passion Paradise’, ‘Amphore Rouge’, and ‘Brut de Cuve’. Santé and see you soon!
-Ivan